Polynucleotides (incl. under-eye)
- Independent guide from The Hair & Beauty Directory
About Polynucleotides (incl. under-eye)
Polynucleotides are an injectable regenerative treatment, sometimes called a skin booster or bio-remodelling treatment. They use purified fragments of DNA, usually derived from salmon or trout and processed to a high grade, which are placed into the skin using a fine needle or cannula. Rather than adding volume like a dermal filler, they are intended to support the skin's own repair processes, encouraging hydration, firmness and a healthier texture over a course of sessions. They are popular for the delicate under-eye area, where the aim is to improve skin quality, fine crepiness and dark, tired-looking circles caused by thin skin, as well as for the face, neck and other areas. Because this is an injectable procedure that breaks the skin, and the under-eye region sits very close to the eye and its blood vessels, it should be treated as a medical aesthetic procedure and not a casual beauty add-on. Results build gradually and are subtle rather than dramatic. The number of sessions, the areas treated and the depth of placement are tailored to your skin, age and goals during a proper consultation. It is not suitable for everyone, and honest expectations matter.
On the day, and after
During the treatment
Your practitioner should reconfirm your medical history and consent, and may photograph the area for your records. The skin is cleansed thoroughly, which matters a great deal near the eyes. A cooling or numbing option may be offered for comfort. The polynucleotide gel is injected through a fine needle or a blunt-tipped cannula into several small points, or spread more evenly, depending on the area and the technique chosen. For the under-eye, placement is careful and conservative because the tissue is thin and delicate. You may feel small scratches, pressure or a mild stinging, and it is normal to see tiny raised bumps or blebs where the product sits; these usually settle within hours. The session itself is typically quite quick, often around fifteen to thirty minutes depending on the areas treated. Afterwards your practitioner should explain aftercare clearly and tell you how to reach them if you have concerns.
How it feels
During treatment you can expect to feel small scratches or pinpricks as the needle or cannula goes in, along with mild pressure, stinging or a brief burning sensation as the product is placed. The under-eye area can feel a little more sensitive because the skin is thin. It is normal to see small raised bumps or blebs where the gel sits, and these usually flatten within a few hours. Afterwards the area may feel tender, tight or slightly swollen, and can look pink or bruised for a day or two. Most people find the discomfort mild and short-lived, and a cooling or numbing option can make it more comfortable.
Results and maintenance
Polynucleotides work gradually rather than instantly. Improvements in hydration, firmness, texture and under-eye quality tend to build over the weeks following each session, and a course, often two to three treatments spaced a few weeks apart, is usually recommended for the best effect. Results are typically natural and subtle, supporting skin quality rather than adding obvious volume, so they may not suit anyone hoping for a dramatic filler-like change or a fix for significant under-eye hollowing or bags, which are different issues. Once a course is complete, benefits generally last several months, and many people choose top-up sessions perhaps every six to twelve months to maintain the effect, though this varies from person to person. Looking after your skin with good sun protection, hydration and a sensible skincare routine helps results last. Your practitioner can advise on a maintenance schedule tailored to your skin and how it responds.
Before and after your appointment
Before your appointment
A face-to-face consultation and full medical history should come first, ideally a little before treatment day so you have time to ask questions and consider your options. Tell your practitioner about any medical conditions, allergies (including to fish, as many products are fish-derived), medicines and supplements, and any history of cold sores if the area is near the mouth. It is generally sensible to avoid blood-thinning medicines and supplements such as fish oil, high-dose vitamin E, aspirin or ibuprofen for a few days beforehand only if your GP or prescriber agrees you can, as this can reduce bruising. Avoiding alcohol for around 24 hours before, and skipping intense exercise, saunas and sunbeds on the day, also helps. Come with clean skin and minimal make-up, and arrive well hydrated. If you are unwell, have an active skin infection or a breakout in the area, it is usually best to reschedule.
Aftercare
Keep the area clean and avoid touching or rubbing it for the rest of the day. It is usually advised not to apply make-up, foundation or heavy creams over the treated skin until the following day, to lower the risk of infection while the tiny injection points close. Skip strenuous exercise, alcohol, saunas, steam rooms and hot tubs for the first day or two, as heat and raised blood flow can worsen swelling and bruising. Avoid heat-based or resurfacing treatments such as radiofrequency, IPL, laser and strong facials near the area for around two weeks. Use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher and protect the skin from strong sun. A cool compress applied gently can ease swelling, and some people find arnica or bromelain helps with bruising. Sleeping slightly propped up for the first night can reduce under-eye puffiness. Follow the specific advice your practitioner gives you, and contact them if anything worries you.
Downtime is usually modest. Redness, mild swelling, tenderness and small bumps at the injection points are common and often settle within a day or two, though the under-eye area can look puffy or bruised for a little longer because the skin is so thin. Bruising, if it happens, may take up to a week or two to fade and can be covered with make-up from the next day. Most people return to normal activities quickly, but it is sensible to avoid an important event in the few days immediately after. Results appear gradually over the following weeks as the skin responds, and a course of sessions is usually needed.
Safety and medical considerations
Safety essentials
Because this is an injectable that pierces the skin near the eye, who treats you matters more than the price. Choose a practitioner who is qualified, trained specifically in polynucleotides and in injecting the under-eye area, insured for this treatment, and working in clean, professional premises with single-use sterile needles and genuine, traceable product. Many people prefer a medical professional such as a doctor, nurse, dentist, pharmacist or prescriber, who is better placed to recognise and manage complications. The under-eye is a higher-risk zone because of nearby blood vessels, so experience counts. Unlike some dermal fillers, polynucleotides cannot be dissolved or reversed, so careful, conservative placement is important. A thorough consultation, written informed consent and clear aftercare with an emergency contact are all signs of responsible practice. In most cases side effects are minor and temporary, but you should know how to seek help quickly if needed.
Medical considerations
Polynucleotides are typically avoided if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, as they have not been studied in these groups, and if you have an active infection, inflammation or breakout in the area. Tell your practitioner about autoimmune conditions, bleeding disorders, a tendency to keloid scarring, diabetes, any history of cold sores near the treatment site, and all medicines and supplements, especially blood thinners. A fish or seafood allergy is particularly important, as many polynucleotide products are derived from salmon or trout DNA. If you have had other injectables, laser or eye procedures recently, mention these too. This information is general and not a substitute for personal medical advice; a face-to-face assessment with a qualified practitioner is essential, and you should check with your GP if you have a health condition or take regular medication. If you notice signs of infection or any change in vision after treatment, seek urgent medical help.
Patch testing
A skin patch test is not the standard requirement for polynucleotides. What protects you instead is a proper face-to-face consultation and medical history taken before treatment, where allergies, medicines, skin conditions and suitability are assessed and informed consent is recorded. This matters because many products are derived from fish DNA, so a known fish or seafood allergy should be flagged and discussed rather than skin-tested casually. Thorough screening and clear documentation are the responsible route and reduce the risk of harm; from a UK liability point of view, they also show the practitioner acted with due care. If you have any history of serious allergy, raise it clearly, and be wary of any provider who skips consultation or rushes you into treatment on the day without questions.
Knowing a good practitioner
Green flags
Good practice looks like a qualified, insured practitioner, often a medical professional or prescriber, who is specifically trained in polynucleotides and in the area being treated. They give you an unhurried, face-to-face consultation, take a full medical history, explain realistic results and risks, and obtain written informed consent, sometimes with a short cooling-off period rather than treating on the spot. The premises are clean and professional, needles are single-use and sterile, and the product is genuine, in date and traceable to a reputable supplier. They tailor the plan to your skin and goals, offer honest advice about whether the treatment suits you, provide clear written aftercare and an emergency contact, and welcome your questions. A willingness to say no, or to refer you elsewhere, is a reassuring sign.
Red flags
Be cautious of anyone who offers polynucleotides with no consultation or medical history, cannot show proof of training, insurance and genuine, traceable product, or works in unhygienic premises or reuses needles. Prices that seem too good to be true, pressure to book immediately, or heavy discounting are warning signs. Vague answers about their qualifications, or an unwillingness to explain risks and aftercare, should give you pause, as should having no way to contact them afterwards if a problem arises. For the under-eye especially, a practitioner without specific experience in that area is a concern. After treatment, spreading redness, increasing pain, pus, a blanching or dusky colour change in the skin, or any change in vision are all reasons to seek urgent medical help.
Questions to ask
- What are your qualifications and training, and are you a medical professional or prescriber experienced in treating this specific area, including under the eyes?
- Are you insured for polynucleotide treatments, and can you tell me the exact product and confirm it is genuine and traceable?
- Given my skin, age and medical history, am I a suitable candidate, and what results are realistic for me?
- How many sessions will I need, how far apart, and what is the full cost of the course?
- What are the possible side effects and complications, and how would you manage them if something went wrong?
- What aftercare should I follow, and how do I contact you urgently if I have a problem after treatment?
Frequently asked questions
Are polynucleotides the same as dermal filler?
No. Dermal fillers, usually hyaluronic acid, add volume and structure, while polynucleotides are a regenerative skin booster intended to improve skin quality, hydration and texture. They give a more subtle, natural result and are not designed to plump or reshape. Unlike many fillers, polynucleotides cannot be dissolved, so careful placement matters.
Are under-eye polynucleotides safe?
In most cases side effects are minor and temporary, such as swelling, tenderness or bruising. The under-eye is a delicate, higher-risk area close to important blood vessels, so it should only be treated by a suitably qualified, trained and insured practitioner. Choosing experience over price is one of the most important safety decisions you can make.
How many sessions will I need and when will I see results?
A course of two to three sessions a few weeks apart is commonly advised, as results build gradually over the following weeks rather than appearing straight away. The exact plan depends on your skin, age and goals, and your practitioner should tailor this and explain it at consultation. Occasional top-ups help maintain the effect.
Is there any downtime?
Downtime is usually modest. Expect some redness, swelling, tenderness and small bumps that often settle within a day or two, though the under-eye can stay puffy or bruised a little longer. Bruising can be covered with make-up from the next day. It is wise to avoid an important event in the few days immediately afterwards.
Can I have this treatment if I have a fish allergy or am pregnant?
Many polynucleotide products are derived from salmon or trout DNA, so a fish or seafood allergy must be discussed with your practitioner beforehand. The treatment is typically avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding as it has not been studied in these groups. Always share your full medical history and check with your GP if you are unsure.
This guide is general information, not medical advice. Speak to a qualified practitioner, and to your GP if you have a medical condition, before booking.