Nail Treatment Glossary
Nail prep
A long lasting manicure starts long before the colour goes on. This glossary explains the words your nail professional uses for prep, products and maintenance, so you know what is happening at every step.
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Prep
Everything done to the natural nail before product goes on: shaping, tidying the cuticle and removing shine and oils. Careful prep is the biggest reason enhancements last.
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Cuticle work
Gently pushing back the cuticle and lifting the dead skin from the nail plate. The living skin at the base of the nail should stay intact, as it protects the nail from infection.
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Dehydrator
A liquid that removes moisture and oils from the nail surface just before product is applied, helping it grip.
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Primer
A liquid that helps gel or acrylic stick to the natural nail. Acid free primers are gentler and are used with most gel systems.
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E file
An electric file with small, interchangeable bits, used to shape, prep and remove product. In trained hands it is quick and precise. Read our Russian Manicure guide.
Products and systems
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Gel polish
A coloured polish that is cured under a lamp. It gives a glossy, chip resistant finish that usually lasts two to three weeks.
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Base coat
The first layer applied to the nail. It helps colour grip and protects the natural nail.
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Rubber base
A thicker, flexible base gel that adds a little strength and smooths the nail surface, often used on natural nails.
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Builder gel
A thicker gel used to strengthen natural nails or add length and structure. It is what many salons use for a structured gel manicure.
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Hard gel and soft gel
Soft gels can usually be soaked off with remover. Hard gels are tougher and are filed off rather than soaked.
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Acrylic
A liquid and powder mixed into a bead and shaped on the nail, where it hardens in the air. It is strong and long lasting and is often used for length.
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Polygel
A product that combines features of acrylic and gel. It is shaped like a putty and then cured under a lamp.
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Dip powder
Coloured powder applied over a bonding liquid, layer by layer, then sealed. It creates a strong, long lasting finish without a lamp.
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Top coat
The final layer that seals in colour and adds shine. No wipe top coats leave no sticky layer behind.
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Inhibition layer
The slightly sticky layer left on some gels after curing. It helps the next layer bond and is wiped away at the end.
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Press ons
Ready made or custom made nails attached with adhesive or sticky tabs, which can often be reused. Read our Custom Press On Nails guide.
Curing and structure
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Curing
Hardening gel under a UV or LED lamp. Each layer needs the time and lamp recommended by the product brand to cure fully.
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Heat spike
A brief feeling of heat as gel cures. If it feels too hot, take your hand out of the lamp for a moment. A good professional will use thinner layers or a lamp setting that reduces it.
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Apex
The highest, strongest point of an enhancement, built over the stress area of the nail. A well placed apex helps nails resist breaking.
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Structure
The shape and balance of the product on your nail, from the side view and front view. Good structure makes nails strong, comfortable and natural looking.
Maintenance and nail health
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Infill
A maintenance appointment where the regrowth gap at the base of the nail is filled and the nail is rebalanced, usually every two to four weeks.
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Rebalance
Reshaping an enhancement during an infill, so the apex moves back to the right place as the nail grows.
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Lifting
When product starts to separate from the natural nail, usually at the edges or base. Book a repair rather than picking, as picking pulls away layers of natural nail.
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Soak off
Removing soft gel or acrylic by soaking in remover until it softens and lifts away gently.
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Overfiling
Filing too much of the natural nail, leaving it thin, bendy or sensitive. A skilled professional files the product, not your nail.
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Gel allergy
An allergy to ingredients called acrylates found in gels and acrylics. It usually develops over time from repeated skin contact, which is why product should never touch the skin. It can cause itching, redness or splitting around the nails.
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Onycholysis
When the nail plate separates from the nail bed, often showing as a white area under the nail. It can be caused by injury, harsh removal or reactions to products. Speak to your doctor or pharmacist if it does not improve.