Curly and Textured Hair Glossary
Understanding your texture
Waves, curls, coils and kinks each have their own beauty and their own needs. This glossary explains the words you will hear from textured hair specialists, so you can understand your hair, choose products with confidence and get the most from your appointments.
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Curl pattern
A way of describing the shape of your strands. A widely used system numbers hair from 1, straight, to 2, wavy, 3, curly and 4, coily, with letters A to C describing how loose or tight each pattern is. Most heads have more than one pattern.
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Waves, curls, coils and kinks
Waves form loose S shapes, curls form defined loops, coils form tight spirals, and kinks form tight zigzag patterns. All are healthy, natural textures.
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Porosity
How easily your hair absorbs and holds on to moisture. Low porosity hair resists water at first but holds moisture well. High porosity hair drinks moisture in quickly but loses it quickly too. A specialist can help you read your hair's porosity.
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Density
How many strands you have on your head, described as low, medium or high. It affects how much product you need and how styles look.
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Strand width
How thick each individual strand is, described as fine, medium or coarse. Fine strands can be fragile even when you have lots of them.
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Elasticity
How much a strand can stretch and return without breaking. Healthy elasticity is a sign of a good balance of moisture and protein.
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Shrinkage
When curls and coils spring up as they dry, so hair looks much shorter than its true length. Shrinkage is a natural sign of healthy, elastic texture.
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Edges
The fine hairs along your hairline. They are the most delicate on your head, so they are best styled gently and kept away from tight tension.
Wash day and care
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Wash day
The day you cleanse, condition, detangle and style your hair. For many people with textured hair it is a planned routine rather than a daily task.
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Pre poo
A treatment applied before shampooing, often an oil or conditioner, to protect the hair from dryness during cleansing.
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Co wash
Washing with a cleansing conditioner instead of shampoo, for gentle cleansing that keeps moisture in.
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Clarifying
A deeper cleanse that removes product build up. Most people only need it every few weeks.
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Slip
How slippery a conditioner or detangler makes the hair. Good slip helps fingers or combs glide through, reducing breakage.
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Moisture and protein balance
Hair needs both moisture for softness and protein for strength. Too much protein can leave hair stiff and brittle, while too much moisture can leave it limp and overly stretchy.
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Hygral fatigue
Weakening that can happen when hair repeatedly swells with water and dries again. Balanced care and not over soaking help prevent it.
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LOC and LCO methods
Layering products in a set order to hold in moisture: liquid, oil and cream, or liquid, cream and oil. The best order depends on your hair.
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Squish to condish
A technique where conditioner is scrunched into wet hair with water, helping curls clump and drink in moisture.
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Plopping
Wrapping wet, styled curls in a soft cotton T shirt or microfibre towel to absorb water and reduce frizz without disturbing the curl.
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Diffusing
Drying curls with a diffuser attachment on a hairdryer, which spreads the airflow so curls keep their shape.
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Cast and scrunch out the crunch
Gels can dry into a firm coating called a cast, which holds curl definition. Once hair is fully dry, you gently scrunch it to break the cast and reveal soft, defined curls.
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Refresh
Reviving curls between wash days with a little water, leave in or styler.
Styles and services
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Wash and go
Styling products applied to wet hair, which is then left to dry in its natural pattern.
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Twist out and braid out
Hair is twisted or braided while damp, left to dry, then unravelled for defined, stretched waves or curls. Read our Twists guide.
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Pineapple
Loosely gathering curls on top of the head at night to protect their shape while you sleep.
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Protective style
A style that tucks away the ends and reduces daily handling, such as braids, twists or locs. Kept light at the root, they give your hair a rest. Read our Locs guide.
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Curly cut
A haircut designed around your curl pattern, often cut dry or curl by curl, so the shape works with your natural texture.
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Silk press
A heat straightening service for natural hair without chemicals, so curls return after washing. Read our Silk Press guide.
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Heat damage
Changes to the hair from too much heat, where curls no longer spring back into their natural pattern. It cannot be repaired, only grown out and trimmed gently over time.
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Transitioning
Growing out relaxed or heat damaged hair while keeping your natural texture, often trimming the old ends gradually. Read our Relaxer guide.