Nail Allergies: Causes and Prevention | Avoiding Gel Polish Allergies

Nail Allergies

By Maria Cientannia Smith

If you're worried about nail allergies or concerned about your clients experiencing issues with their nails, please read this.

I’ve attached a picture of the three layers of the nail plate to explain how easy it is to over-file. One swipe on the nail removes the shine, providing a perfect surface to apply gel polish. However, a second swipe over the same area begins to remove the layers of the nail surface. The top of the nail plate is the hardest part, and the more it's filed (during application, re-application, and removal), the thinner and softer it becomes, to the point where it essentially becomes skin.

How Do Nail Allergies Occur?

There are three ways an allergy can occur: ingestion, inhalation, and absorption. When the nail plate is over-filed and becomes more like skin, it starts to absorb the gel polish. If the nail has been excessively filed, the gel can penetrate the nail/skin and enter the bloodstream. The nail/skin then reacts defensively, trying to rid the body of the gel polish, as the ingredients are not suitable for skin exposure over a prolonged period. This reaction can lead to symptoms like:

  • Crustiness under the hyponychium
  • Nail separation (as the nail becomes too thin to stay attached)
  • A pinched or narrowed appearance, where the nail loses its shape and strength

These symptoms typically start appearing around months four or five if the entire nail surface is repeatedly filed at each appointment.

Identifying Allergy Symptoms

In nails affected by an allergy, you'll often notice that the middle section leading to the free edge is the most impacted. This is because this area has experienced more filing over time, whereas the cuticle area (where new nail growth occurs) is less affected, as it hasn't been filed as much.

How to Avoid Nail Allergies for Your Clients

  1. Opt for Infills Over Full Removal:
    Quality gel polishes don’t need to be removed at every visit, so infilling is a healthier option. This reduces the need to file over the entire nail, allowing you to focus on new growth only.

  2. Proper Removal Techniques:
    If you do need to remove the polish, ensure it’s done correctly. Avoid scraping or filing the remaining gel off impatiently, as this will inevitably result in filing the natural nail.

  3. Know Your Nail Files:
    Files with a grit of 150/100/80 should never be used on the natural nail. These coarse files are for removing acrylic or hard gel only, not for use on the nail plate. Stick to a 180/240 grit file for occasional removal of gel polish or new nail growth.

  4. Use a White Block for Gels Removed at Each Visit:
    A 180/240 white block is suitable for use when gel polish is removed and reapplied every visit. This type of block will gently remove the shine without etching the natural nail.

  5. Monitor Pressure:
    If you’re unsure how much pressure to apply when using a file or block, try removing the color from a brown egg. The eggshell is slightly thinner than a pinkie nail and can give you an excellent indication of the right amount of pressure.

Key Tips to Remember

  • Gel polish should only be applied on a healthy nail plate. Only remove the shine, and avoid etching the natural nail.
  • If you're not confident in infilling, consider getting additional training.
  • If your brand recommends using harsh grit files, ask about alternatives like softer files or primers.

While these tips won’t prevent all allergies (as some individuals may still be sensitive to gel polish), following these guidelines will significantly reduce the chances of causing nail allergies.

By following these practices, you can keep your clients' nails healthy and greatly reduce the risk of allergies. Keep learning, keep practicing, and most importantly, always prioritize the health of your clients' nails.