Corneotherapy: Intelligent Skin Health

The term was first used back in the 1960’s by Dr Albert Kligman, co founder of Retin A, but is gathering momentum with the growing number of compromised skins now being seen in clinic.

Maria Rylott-Byrd

When we think about the skin barrier, a good analogy is that of a house. If the roof is broken then the house will inevitably leak. We could go ahead and make improvements to the inside of our house, but there is little point without fixing the roof, because if the roof continues to leak and the rot will start to set in.

The same is true of our skin. We need to seal the barrier first to prevent it from being susceptible to microbial penetration and trans-epidermal water loss. Both of which can lead to skin complaints such as sensitivity, inflammation, dehydration, or infection

Our skin barrier is therefore a defence system, but what exactly is the skin barrier? Well, it isn’t any one thing, it is in fact a collaboration, made up of the acid mantle, skin microbiome and stratum corneum. All of which work together in harmony to protect us, and whilst our barrier may be impacted by age, environment and lifestyle, many are surprised to learn that it can also be affected by the topical skincare products we use.

Why? because they may not be suitable for our skin or they may contain ingredients that the skin does not like or recognise.

Corneotherapists refrain from using such ingredients, offering formulations that are devoid of petrochemicals, preservatives, fragrances, emulsifiers and silicones to name but a few, all of which do not serve the skin.

Instead, corneotherapeutic skincare prefers ingredients that are compatible with the skin's own biochemistry. Ingredients that mimic the skin’s natural function and that the skin is receptive to

Corneotherapists will also avoid aggressive protocols that systematically wipe out the skins epidermal defence systems, reasoning that it is preferable to nurture the skin and encourage sustainable results through effective cellular function.

A quick fix may be tempting, but the reality is it doesn’t encourage optimal skin health.

A natural assumption would be to assume that a flaky skin needs to be exfoliated. However, that is only addressing the symptom, not the cause. Indeed, compromising an already compromised skin is not a sensible course of action and will in all probability create more problems than it solves.

By working with the natural physiology of the skin, we as clinicians can promote the skin’s natural ability to repair and regenerate itself, often mitigating many of the symptoms our client presented with in the first place.

As skin therapists we should respect our largest organ and choose to work with not against its natural function.