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Charlotte Rye is a professional aesthetic and skincare therapist with 33 years experience in treating skin. Charlotte specialises in combination treatments using…
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At In Sensu Ltd is a Grantham-based advanced skincare clinic specialising in permanent makeup, laser treatments, aesthetic procedures, and personalised skincare…
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is a mechanical exfoliation treatment that gently buffs away the outermost layer of dead skin cells to reveal fresher, smoother skin beneath. It is usually carried out in two ways: a crystal system that sprays fine particles across the skin while vacuuming them away, or a diamond-tipped wand that abrades the surface. Both are non-invasive and work only on the very top layers, so it is very different from deeper treatments such as microneedling or medical dermabrasion. People often choose it to improve skin texture and radiance, soften the look of dull or congested skin, and help skincare absorb more effectively. It is best thought of as a surface polish rather than a cure for skin conditions, and it will not remove deep scars, wrinkles or pigmentation on its own. Results are typically subtle and cumulative, so a short course spaced a few weeks apart usually gives a more noticeable, longer-lasting glow than a single session. It suits many skin types when the skin barrier is healthy and intact, and a good practitioner will tailor the intensity, suction and number of passes to your skin's tolerance and your goals.
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In most cases, preparation is simple, but it does matter for a comfortable, even result. Stop using strong actives such as retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, glycolic acids and prescription exfoliants for a few days beforehand, as these thin and sensitise the surface. Avoid waxing, electrolysis, injectables, chemical peels, laser and sunbeds or heavy sun exposure in the week before your appointment, and never come in with sunburnt, broken or irritated skin. Arrive with a clean, product-free face if you can, and skip fake tan, which can be buffed away unevenly. Tell your practitioner about any medication, recent treatments and skin concerns during consultation, and flag anything like active acne, cold sores, rosacea or a history of easily scarring skin. If you are on Roaccutane or blood thinners, mention this early, as it typically means postponing. Staying hydrated and moisturising well in the days before can help your skin tolerate the exfoliation and recover more smoothly.
A session usually starts with a consultation and skin cleanse, followed by the treatment itself, which most people find quick and comfortable. Your practitioner moves either a crystal-spraying handpiece or a diamond-tipped wand across the skin in steady passes, and you will feel a mild gritty scratching alongside a vacuum-like suction that tugs gently at the surface. The intensity, suction strength and number of passes are adjusted to your skin, so speak up if anything feels too strong. The face typically takes around twenty to thirty minutes, and sensitive or bony areas can feel slightly more intense. There is no numbing cream and the treatment should never break the skin or draw blood, as it works only on the surface layers. Afterwards your skin may look pink or flushed and feel a little tight or warm, rather like mild windburn. Your practitioner will usually finish with a soothing serum, moisturiser and SPF, and talk you through aftercare before you leave.
Aftercare focuses on protecting a freshly exfoliated, temporarily more delicate surface. For the first couple of days, keep to gentle, fragrance-free cleansing and moisturising, and hold off on strong actives such as retinoids, AHAs, glycolics, vitamin C and scrubs for around seventy-two hours so the barrier can settle. Daily broad-spectrum SPF is essential, as newly exposed skin is more vulnerable to UV and pigmentation; try to stay out of direct sun and avoid sunbeds. Skip heat-based activities such as saunas, steam rooms, hot yoga and sweaty workouts for a day or two, along with swimming pools, as chlorine can sting. Leave makeup off for around twelve hours if you can, and choose gentle mineral formulas when you restart. Mild redness, tightness, dryness or light flaking is normal as the skin renews, so keep moisturising and resist picking. Avoid other facials, waxing, peels and injectables for about a week, and drink plenty of water to support recovery.
Microdermabrasion is a surface treatment, so its safety rests on healthy, intact skin and a competent practitioner who works at the right intensity. It should only be carried out on skin with an unbroken barrier, never over cuts, sunburn, active breakouts, cold sores, weeping eczema or infected areas, as buffing these can spread infection or damage the skin. A good practitioner assesses your skin type and history first, adjusts suction and passes to your tolerance, and stops if the skin becomes overly red or sensitive. Hygiene matters: diamond tips and crystal systems must be properly cleaned and, where relevant, single-use consumables and fresh crystals used between clients. The treatment should never draw blood, because it works only on superficial layers; bleeding suggests it has been taken too deep. Check that your practitioner is trained, insured and works in a clean, professional setting. If you have sensitive, thin or reactive skin, a patch or lower-intensity first session is sensible.
Although microdermabrasion is low-risk, several medical factors mean it should be delayed or avoided, so an honest consultation matters. It is generally not suitable if you use oral or topical Roaccutane (isotretinoin), which thins and fragilises the skin, and many practitioners ask you to wait around six months after stopping. Blood thinners, easily bruised or fragile skin, active or severe acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis flares, cold sores, and any skin infection are also reasons to postpone. Conditions such as diabetes, poor wound healing, a history of keloid or hypertrophic scarring, or reduced skin sensation warrant caution and often medical advice first. Undiagnosed or changing moles, lesions or suspected skin cancer should be checked by a GP or dermatologist before any treatment. Pregnancy is not an absolute barrier for surface exfoliation, but tell your practitioner so they can adapt. If you are unsure whether a medication or condition affects you, speak to your GP or a suitably qualified practitioner before booking.
A formal allergy patch test is not usually required for microdermabrasion, because it is mechanical exfoliation rather than a chemical or dye-based treatment, and reactions to the crystals are uncommon. What genuinely reduces risk is a thorough pre-treatment consultation and skin assessment: reviewing your medical history, medications such as Roaccutane and blood thinners, skin conditions, recent treatments and sun exposure, and checking the skin barrier is intact. For sensitive, reactive or first-time skin, a small test area or a gentler introductory session at lower intensity is a sensible way to gauge tolerance before treating the whole face. This consultation-first approach protects you and supports the practitioner's duty of care, as skipping proper screening can leave an insured practitioner found at fault if a foreseeable problem arises. If any product used alongside the treatment could cause sensitivity, ask about testing it first.
Be cautious if a practitioner is willing to treat broken, sunburnt, infected or actively breaking-out skin, or does not ask about your medical history, medications or recent treatments. Numbing cream should not be needed for standard microdermabrasion, and the skin should never bleed; pinpoint bleeding or a treatment taken deep enough to draw blood is a warning sign that it is being pushed beyond a surface procedure. Reused or visibly dirty diamond tips, no attention to cleaning between clients, or shared crystals raise real hygiene concerns. Other warning signs include pressure to buy long courses without assessing your skin, overblown promises to remove deep scars, wrinkles or pigmentation, no aftercare advice, and no insurance or training when asked. If your skin is left raw, blistered or persistently sore, that is not normal.
Good practice starts with a proper consultation: the practitioner reviews your skin type, history, medications and goals, and sets honest expectations about what microdermabrasion can and cannot achieve. They work in a clean, professional environment, keep diamond tips and equipment properly cleaned, and use fresh consumables and crystals where relevant. Intensity, suction and the number of passes are tailored to your skin and adjusted if it becomes too red or sensitive, and they check in with you throughout. They confirm the skin barrier is healthy before starting, never take the treatment deep enough to break the skin, and finish with soothing products and SPF. A good practitioner is trained, insured and happy to answer questions, gives clear written aftercare, recommends a sensible course rather than overselling, and advises seeing a GP where a medical issue or suspicious skin lesion needs checking first.
- What training, qualifications and insurance do you hold for microdermabrasion?
- Is crystal or diamond-tip microdermabrasion better for my skin type and concerns?
- How do you clean equipment and consumables between clients?
- Given my medical history and any medication I take, is this treatment suitable for me right now?
- What results can I realistically expect, and how many sessions might I need?
- What aftercare should I follow, and what should I do if my skin reacts badly?
Most people find microdermabrasion comfortable and describe it as a mild, gritty scratching combined with a vacuum-like suction that gently pulls at the skin as the handpiece passes over. It is often likened to a cat's tongue or light sandpaper, and the suction can feel a little unusual around the eyes, nose and jawline, where skin is thinner or sits over bone. There is no numbing cream and it should not be painful; if any area feels too strong, the intensity and suction can be dialled down. Afterwards the skin usually feels tight, warm and slightly tender, rather like mild windburn, and may look pink for a few hours. Sharp pain or any bleeding is not expected and means the treatment is too aggressive.
Microdermabrasion is known for having little to no downtime, which is part of its appeal. Most people notice some pinkness, warmth and a tight or slightly sensitive feeling for a few hours, sometimes up to a day, and many return to normal activities straight away. Over the following days you may see mild dryness or light flaking as the surface renews, which typically settles by itself. More noticeable redness or sensitivity can occur after a firmer treatment or on more reactive skin. If redness, soreness or swelling lasts beyond a couple of days, or the skin feels broken or blistered, contact your practitioner or a GP, as this is not the usual experience.
Microdermabrasion gives an immediate freshness and smoother texture, though the fuller benefit builds gradually as regular exfoliation encourages surface renewal. A single session can leave skin looking brighter and feeling softer, but effects are typically subtle and temporary, so many people have a short course spaced around one to two weeks apart, followed by occasional maintenance sessions every few weeks or monthly. Results depend on your skin, age and lifestyle, and the intensity can be tailored over a course as your skin adjusts. To protect and extend the benefits, keep up daily SPF, moisturise well, stay hydrated and use a gentle, consistent skincare routine, reintroducing actives like retinoids and acids slowly once the skin has settled. It works best as a complement to good everyday skincare rather than a one-off fix, and it will not replace treatments aimed at deeper concerns such as significant scarring, deep lines or stubborn pigmentation.
Upper Lip Waxing
Upper lip waxing is a quick, popular form of temporary hair removal that lifts fine to coarse hair from the root across the top lip. Warm (soft) or hot (hard) wax is applied to the small area, allowed to grip the hair, then removed to take the hairs with it. Because it removes hair below the surface, results usually last longer than shaving or depilatory creams, and regrowth often feels softer over time. Many people choose it for smooth skin ahead of make-up or simply for day-to-day confidence. The upper lip is a delicate, visible area with thin skin, so technique, wax temperature and hygiene matter more than the small size of the zone might suggest. Hard wax is often preferred here because it clings to hair rather than skin, which can reduce discomfort and redness. It is a low-risk beauty treatment for most healthy adults, but it is not suitable for everyone: certain medicines, skin conditions and recent treatments can make skin more fragile. A brief consultation and honest chat about your skin and medical history helps your therapist tailor the approach and keep the experience comfortable and safe.
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Let the hair grow to roughly five millimetres, about the length of a grain of rice, so the wax has enough to grip; hair that is too short may be missed. Avoid strong exfoliating actives on the area for a few days beforehand, including retinoids, glycolic or salicylic acid and scrubs, as these thin and sensitise the skin and raise the risk of lifting. Skip sunbeds, sunbathing and fake tan for around twenty-four to forty-eight hours before your appointment, and reschedule if the skin is sunburnt, broken or irritated. Come with a clean, product-free lip area, as oils and heavy moisturiser can stop the wax adhering. Cutting back on caffeine and alcohol on the day may reduce sensitivity for some people. Tell your therapist about any medicines, recent facials or peels, and skin conditions so they can decide whether to proceed, patch test or adjust the wax used.
Your therapist will start by cleansing the upper lip and often dusting it with a little powder to protect the skin and absorb moisture. They may apply a thin pre-wax oil, particularly with hard wax, so it grips hair rather than skin. Warm wax is spread in the direction of hair growth, left to set for a moment, then removed swiftly against the growth while the skin is held taut. The whole treatment usually takes only a few minutes because the area is small. You may feel a brief, sharp tug as each strip or piece is removed, followed quickly by soothing pressure from the therapist's hand, which helps ease the sting. A calming lotion or gel is applied afterwards to reduce redness. A good therapist will check the temperature of the wax on themselves first, work in small sections and never double-dip a used spatula back into the pot, keeping the process hygienic and comfortable.
For the first twenty-four to forty-eight hours the skin is more vulnerable, so treat it gently. Avoid touching or picking at the area, and hold off on make-up, perfumed products and heavy creams over the lip for at least a day to lower the chance of irritation or blocked follicles. Keep away from heat and friction: no hot baths, saunas, steam rooms, swimming pools or vigorous exercise for a day or so, as sweat and heat can irritate freshly waxed skin. Steer clear of direct sun and sunbeds, and once redness settles apply a broad-spectrum SPF, since the skin can be more sun-sensitive. From around day two or three, light exfoliation a couple of times a week and a simple moisturiser help prevent ingrown hairs. If you notice unusual soreness, spots or lifting of skin, keep the area clean and seek advice from your therapist or a pharmacist.
Safety here rests mainly on hygiene, correct wax temperature and honest screening, because the upper lip has thin, delicate skin over a visible area. The wax should be warm, never scalding: overheated wax can burn, and a lip burn is both painful and slow to fade. Choose a clean, professional setting where the therapist washes their hands, wears gloves where appropriate and never double-dips a used spatula back into the wax pot, as re-dipping can transfer bacteria. Single-use spatulas or fresh strips are a good sign. Your therapist should ask about your medical history and current skincare before starting, and should decline or adjust the treatment if your skin is broken, sunburnt, infected or recently exfoliated. If you are new to waxing or have reactive skin, a patch test is a reasonable precaution. When in doubt about a medicine or skin condition, it is always worth checking with your GP or pharmacist first.
Some medicines and conditions make waxing unsuitable or riskier, so share your full history. Oral isotretinoin (Roaccutane) and other oral retinoids thin the skin and greatly increase the risk of tearing or lifting; the widely used professional standard is to avoid facial waxing while taking it and for around six months after stopping, though you should confirm timing with your prescriber. Topical retinoids, recent chemical peels, microdermabrasion or laser on the area also fragilise skin and warrant a delay. Blood-thinning medication can increase bruising, and conditions such as poorly controlled diabetes may slow healing. Active cold sores, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea flares, sunburn or broken skin over the lip mean waxing should wait. Pregnancy, hormonal treatments and some antibiotics can heighten skin sensitivity. Waxing is not a medical treatment and does not diagnose or treat any skin condition. If you are unsure whether a medicine or condition affects your suitability, check with your GP, pharmacist or prescriber before booking.
A patch test is not always routine for a simple wax, but it is sensible for first-time clients, sensitive or reactive skin, or if you use active skincare or have recently had facials or peels. More important is a proper pre-treatment check: your therapist should review your medicines, skin conditions, recent treatments and sun exposure, and inspect the area for broken or irritated skin before applying wax. This matters for both safety and UK liability, because an insured practitioner who skips reasonable screening and causes a burn, tear or reaction could be found at fault in a claim. Remember that skin can also become sensitised over time, so a clear history today does not guarantee no reaction in future. If anything about your skin or health has changed, mention it, even if you have been waxed before.
Be cautious if the therapist double-dips a used spatula back into the wax pot, works from a dirty or cluttered station, or does not wash their hands or change gloves between clients. Wax that feels uncomfortably hot on your skin, or a therapist who does not test the temperature, is a burn risk and a warning sign. Take note if no one asks about your medical history, medicines or recent skincare, or if concerns you raise, such as being on Roaccutane or having a cold sore, are brushed aside. Pressure to proceed on sunburnt, broken or infected skin, reluctance to explain aftercare, or an unwillingness to answer questions about hygiene and training are all reasons to pause and consider going elsewhere.
Good practice looks like a clean, tidy treatment room, visible hand-washing and gloves where appropriate, and single-use or freshly changed spatulas with no double-dipping. A conscientious therapist tests the wax temperature before applying it, works in small sections, holds the skin taut and soothes the area straight afterwards. They will ask about your medical history, medicines, allergies and recent skincare, and be willing to postpone or patch test if that is the safer choice. Clear, honest explanations of what to expect, realistic advice on regrowth, and written or spoken aftercare are all reassuring. Relevant qualifications, professional insurance and membership of a recognised industry body are further signs you are in careful hands.
- Do you use single-use spatulas or ensure there is no double-dipping into the wax pot?
- Will you patch test me, and do you check temperature before applying the wax to my lip?
- I use retinoids or acid exfoliants on my skin, or I am on medication such as Roaccutane, is it safe for me to be waxed?
- Do you use hard or soft wax on the upper lip, and which do you feel suits my skin best?
- What qualifications, training and insurance do you hold for facial waxing?
- What aftercare should I follow, and what should I do if I get redness, bumps or ingrown hairs?
Most people feel a quick, sharp tug or stinging pinch as the wax is pulled away, since the hairs are lifted from the root. Because the upper lip has thin skin and sits near the nose, this small area can feel more sensitive than others, and your eyes may water briefly, which is a normal reflex rather than a sign of harm. The sting usually fades within seconds, especially when the therapist presses a hand over the area straight afterwards. You can expect some warmth, mild throbbing and pinkness for a short while, and occasionally tiny bumps. Sensitivity varies from person to person and can be greater around your period or if you are new to waxing.
There is essentially no downtime with upper lip waxing, which is part of its appeal. Most people return to normal activities straight away. Expect some redness, warmth and mild tenderness for anywhere from twenty minutes to a few hours, and occasionally small raised bumps where hairs have been removed, which typically settle within a day. Those with sensitive or reactive skin may stay pink a little longer. A cool compress and a fragrance-free soothing gel help. Because the skin is briefly more delicate, it is sensible to plan waxing a day or two before an important event rather than on the day itself.
Upper lip waxing typically keeps the area smooth for around two to four weeks, though this varies with your natural hair cycle and how quickly you regrow. Because the hair is removed from the root, regrowth tends to feel finer and softer than the stubble left by shaving, and over time some people find hair grows back a little sparser. For best results, let the hair reach about five millimetres before rebooking rather than waxing too soon, and try to keep to a regular pattern so more hairs are caught in the same growth phase. Gentle exfoliation a couple of times a week and daily moisturising between appointments help prevent ingrown hairs and keep skin comfortable. Waxing does not permanently remove hair; if you want a longer-term reduction, laser or electrolysis with a qualified provider may be worth discussing. Your therapist can tailor frequency and wax type to your skin's sensitivity and your regrowth.