We as skin therapists tell our clients that they should be striving for healthy skin, but what exactly does that mean?

Contrary to their often misguided opinion, this is not perfection. Seeking perfection is like fighting a losing battle. We should therefore be managing our client’s expectations to avoid disappointment, especially when their skin doesn’t become ‘airbrushed’ like the images on Instagram.

Understanding Healthy Skin: Beyond Perfection

As skin therapists, we guide our clients toward achieving healthy skin. But what does “healthy skin” truly mean? It’s crucial to dispel the myth that healthy skin equates to flawless, airbrushed perfection as seen in social media images. Healthy skin is not about achieving a state of perfection but maintaining balance and function.

Healthy Skin is in Homeostasis: Healthy skin is in a constant state of homeostasis, meaning it can effectively balance itself and defend against external aggressors. This equilibrium allows the skin to function with strength and resilience.

The Role of the Epidermis: While much focus is on the dermis, cellular functions crucial for skin health occur in the epidermis. Here’s a simplified look at this process:

• Keratinocytes: These cells originate in the basal layer of the epidermis, move upward through the layers, and transform into corneocytes. Once their role is fulfilled, they become surplus and eventually shed off through desquamation.
• Cell Renewal Cycle: In youth, this cycle occurs approximately every 28 days. However, as we age, it extends to over 50 days. Despite common beliefs, a properly functioning skin doesn’t need excessive intervention; a gentle weekly exfoliation is usually sufficient.

Managing Expectations: Clients often expect their skin to look like the airbrushed images they see online. It's important to manage these expectations and emphasize that skin health involves maintaining balance rather than striving for unrealistic perfection.

In a nutshell, it is a shield that protects the epidermis. It needs to be in-tact for the aforementioned epidermis to be healthy. It is an eco-system comprised of the lipids, microbiome and the acid mantle. They work together to protect the body from the infiltration of micro-organisms and the escape of moisture through trans-epidermal water loss. Should it not be working effectively, it can cause the skin to become sensitised, inflamed, dehydrated and prone to infection or skin disorders. 
And this is where we as therapists need to question our thought processes.

Understanding the Barrier: The skin barrier is a protective shield consisting of lipids, the microbiome, and the acid mantle. This barrier is vital for:

• Protection: Defending against microorganisms.
• Moisture Retention: Preventing trans-epidermal water loss.

A compromised barrier can lead to various skin issues, including sensitivity, inflammation, dehydration, and increased susceptibility to infections or disorders.

Exfoliation and the Skin Barrier: Traditionally, exfoliation has been used to remove dry, flaky skin to reveal a fresh layer underneath. However, over-exfoliation can disrupt the natural maturation of corneocytes, impair the barrier, and potentially lead to a cycle of skin irritation and excessive flakiness.

Balancing Exfoliation: While controlled exfoliation can be beneficial in some cases, it should be approached with caution. The goal should be to enhance skin function without compromising the barrier’s integrity.

Perhaps a weekly gentle exfoliation at most. We should be encouraging our clients to create the right environment for their skin to flourish, one that encourages optimised function. 
However, the beauty industry (and the public) has fallen for instantly smooth and perceived glowing skin. These incessant exfoliation processes sadly don’t allow time for the corneocytes to naturally mature and die. The reality is, ageing corneocytes still play an important part in communicating with the immune system. In other words, prematurely removing them will ultimately impair the barrier. 

Creating the Right Environment: Encourage clients to maintain a balanced routine that supports their skin’s natural functions rather than focusing on achieving a superficial glow. The skin’s ability to regenerate and protect itself is best supported through a thoughtful approach that prioritizes its health and well-being.

Therapist’s Responsibility: As skin professionals, it is our duty to:

• Evaluate Skin Needs: Assess whether exfoliation or other interventions are necessary based on the skin’s current state and needs.
• Consider the Skin, Not Transactions: Make decisions based on what’s best for the client’s skin health rather than on what might generate the most immediate revenue.

In summary, healthy skin is about achieving and maintaining balance, not chasing unattainable perfection. By understanding and respecting the skin’s natural processes, including the function of the barrier and the cell renewal cycle, we can better support our clients in achieving true skin health.